New Zealand February - June 2015, Westland National Park

Similar to Paparoa national park (previous post), the reasons for our visit to this area of New Zealand's South Island were mostly the stunning landscapes. This national park, which is also called Tai Poutini national park, is world famous for its two easily accessible glaciers, Frans Joseph Glacier and Fox Glacier. When visiting these two glaciers it becomes obvious very quickly that both, but especially Frans Joseph Glacier, are major tourist attractions and helicopters hover over constantly, filled with adventurous tourists. This has its advantages, namely both Frans Joseph and Fox are easily reached from various major cities on the South Island. However this also means that everything is rather expensive here. Despite the two glaciers being the parks main draw, there are some other interesting things that can be done here, including some reasonable bird watching, even though the park hosts no species that cannot be seen somewhere else.

The first site we visited inside this national park was Frans Joseph Glacier. Although the glacier is stunning, as are its moraine fields, the speed of the retreat of the glacier becomes quickly obvious, visualizing the impacts of global change. There were only few birds present in the area and we only noted New Zealand Bellbird, Tomtit, New Zealand Fantail and Silvereye. There also is a wildlife center in Frans Joseph, where most, if not all, Okarito Brown Kiwi's and Haast' Tokoeka's (the Haast subspecies of Southern Brown Kiwi) hatch and spent the first weeks of their lives. The hatcheries can be visited for 50 NZD and it is quite interesting to learn more about the work that is being put into the protection of these species.

Frans Joseph Glacier

Tired, but adorable, two-day-old Okarito Brown Kiwi (Apteryx rowi) chick at Westland Wildlife Center.
Picture taken by Jason Preble. 

The next two days however, we visited an area that held far more birds, including some of great interest. We had decided to do the 18 km Copland Track to the legendary Welcome Flat Hut. The main draw of this hike and the Welcome Flat Hut are the hot pools with a very pleasant temperature that are located just next to the hut. Just like as many places and hikes in the Southern Alps, this site is weather dependent and so do check with the DOC office at either Frans Joseph or Fox. You need to make a reservation for the Welcome Flat Hut with them anyway (camping is 5 NZD and a bunk is 15 NZD). We hiked to the hut within seven hours and enjoyed increasingly beautiful scenery as well as some good birds, including Western Weka, Kaka, Kea, Pipipi, Tomtit and Rifleman. Once we were soaking our tired bodies in the hot springs we truly understood the magnificence of this place. There are not many places where one can enjoy a natural hot spring while Kea are flying over with brilliantly white glaciers in the background. The next day we managed to hike back within five hours, again encountering Western Weka, Kaka, Kea and other forest birds along the track. However we also connected to some extend with a species that I have wanted to see for a long time: Blue Duck (Whio). While hiking the Copland Track, you cross a lot of small streams that seem fit for Blue Ducks, unfortunately we never saw one at these streams and only heard two shrill Whio whistles from the main river, while we were in the forest. Not the sighting I had hoped for. I found out that Scott's Creek, a couple of hours hike further upstream from Welcome Flat Hut is a reliable spot for Blue Ducks in this area, but we did not have the time to attempt this site.

Male Tomtit (Petroica macrocephala)

After this track, we paid Fox Glacier a visit and I must admit that even though this glacier is less frequented by tourists than Frans Joseph Glacier, it stroke me as more impressive. Bird life however was comparably low with just a single New Zealand Fantail noted. Although we heard several Kea in the Fox village in the evening.

I can highly recommend visiting some places in this national park, especially if you are travelling with some non-birders. For hardcore birdwatchers this place might be not worth a stop, but do remember, the scenery is truly stunning. There is a reason why there are so many tourists here.