Vietnam August - October 2013, Ngoc Linh

After seeing the first endemic of the Kontum plateau (Chestnut-eared Laughingthrush) we set out with Bao to do some exploring, in the hope of becoming the first birding crew to complete the Kontum trio. Recently a new road has been built along the southern slopes of mount Ngoc Linh, where the mythical Golden-winged Laughingthrush is found. The laughingthrush was reported to occur between 2.000 and 2.200 MASL on Ngoc Linh, but also occurs on Ngoc Boc to south of Ngoc Linh and that mountain is only 1.800 MASL. The new road,which starts at Tumorong and will lead in the future all the way to Quang Ngai province, only reaches an elevation of just above 1.500 MASL. However, the road passes through some really good quality high montane forest, which looked exactly the same as the the forest on Ngoc Linh on higher elevations.

Satellite picture of the new road leading to the southern slopes of Ngoc Linh

We set out to check out the forest and the area on the first day, so we could decide our strategy. After all this area has probably never been birded before. Unfortunately on our first exploration drive we got stuck in a mud hole in the road, whose quality ranges from Dubai highway to virtually non-existent. The car was so stuck that a truck could not pull it out and after five to six hours of trying, we had to abandon car for the night. After a very interesting night at a local house we went back to the car with a bigger truck and managed to pull it out of the swamp. However lady luck was still not on our side as it rained all day (apparently it had rained here for a month non-stop). We explored one trail which produced not much, but an unidentified laugher flying over the trail, but unwilling to show itself was enough to keep our spirits high. Furthermore we recorded Pygmy Cupwing, Plumbeous Water Redstart and White-crowned Forktail.

Luckily the next day it was beautiful weather and we enjoyed stunning scenery and good birding. We tried both roadside birding and checking out forest trails up to 1.670 MASL, but in the end we were not successfull in locating a Golden-winged Laugher. The highlight of the day was a Black-crowned Barwing that was found in a patch of degraded forest along the roadside. This sighting might prove to be quite important as it is only the second area where this species is found (the first being the northern slopes of Ngoc Linh including the Lo Xo pass). Other highlights included several Red-tailed Laughingthrushes and White-winged Magpies. Mixed species flocks where diverse and entertaining. They held Clicking and Green Shrike Babblers, Red-tailed Minla. Rufous-winged Fulvetta (of the endemic stepanyani subspecies), Fork-tailed Sunbird, Large Niltava, Yellow-billed Nuthatch, Grey-crowned Tit, Grey-crowned, Grey-cheeked and Chestnut-crowned Warbler and Annam Barbet amongst others. While the sky prooved good for Black Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Shikra, Oriental Honey Buzzard and Silver-backed Needletail. Stangely enough we only recorded one mammal, which was an unidentified squirrel.

The highlight of our visit to Ngoc Linh: discovering a new site for Black-crowned Barwing (Actinodura sodangorum)

Red-tailed Laughingthrush (Garrulax milnei)

White-winged Magpie (Urocissa whiteheadi)

Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela)

Black eagles (Ictinaetus malayensis) are always cool to see

I really think that this area might hold some Golden-winged Laughingthrushes, but obviously one day in the wet season, without local knowledge is not enough to locate it. Apparently it is only dry here between March and May, so another try in that time of the year might prove more fruitful. The forest is still very nice and exciting things are just waiting to be found. The locals for example recognised Crested Argus and Cutia in the book. However the site is still very remote and more or less a restricted area for foreigners, although they seem to be less strict about it here then on the northern slopes of the mountain, for we had barely any trouble. We were only advised by locals to turn around at the altitude of 1.670 MASL for we might get problems with the authorities. So when visiting this site please be careful and do not bring the locals in jeopardy. Furthermore, I think visiting this site without a guide is unwise, because nobody speaks any english and you might want a translator if you get into trouble with the authorities. Regarding the accomodation, there is a small hotel in Tumorong which is only 30 km from the forest, that offers very decent rooms, but the locals might also be willing to invite you into their homes. Concluding, I highly recommend this site, but with the right consideration and preparation.